By Sandra Bao, Anja Mutic
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires
Whirl your means throughout the elusive steps of a tango class
Salivate over your selection of 10 assorted cuts of meat at a favored parilla
Parade via Palermo Viejo in state-of-the-art threads from a scorching new neighborhood designer
Feel your pulse race at a frenetic los angeles Bombonera futbol game
In This Guide:
192 in the neighborhood reviewed eating places, 12 vintage cafes and nine milongas (dance halls) to check your tango
Dedicated Day journeys bankruptcy sends you crusing alongside rivers, walking cobblestone streets and galloping with gauchos
Locals exhibit the artwork of Argentine wine and BA's replacement theater scene
Content up to date day-by-day - stopover at lonelyplanet.com for up to the moment studies, updates and visitor insights
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Additional info for Lonely Planet Buenos Aires
When I reach the stunning Galerías Pacífico I pop inside for a quick peep at the gorgeous ceiling murals (and take a bathroom break downstairs). Plaza San Martín invites a restful sit-down and makes for some great people-watching on the grassy lawns. Then I head up Av Alvear into upscale Recoleta, where I wander the crafts stalls before ducking into the cemetery for some quiet reflection and awesome photo ops. After catching the 59 bus to Palermo Viejo I find the stores still open, and go on a shopping spree at clothing boutiques.
Here, small-time villains known as compadritos mingled and danced with waitresses and prostitutes in a strong blend of machismo, passion and longing. Small musical ensembles were soon brought in to accompany early tangos, which were a medley of tunes influenced by polka, habanera, Spanish and Italian melodies and African candombe drums. The bandoneón, a type of small accordion, was brought into these sessions and has since become tango’s signature instrument. The tango song was also born permeated with nostalgia for a disappearing way of life; it summarized the new urban experience for the immigrants.
The military leaders let numerous aspects of the country’s well-being slip into decay along with the entire national economy. When Ronald Reagan took power in the USA in 1981, he reversed Jimmy Carter’s condemnation of the junta’s human-rights abuses and even invited the generals to visit Washington, DC. Backed by this relationship with the USA, the military were able to solicit development loans from international lenders, but endemic corruption quickly drained the coffers into their Swiss bank accounts.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires by Sandra Bao, Anja Mutic